The third and last tutorial in my rainbow giveaway series is my take on a short row crochet slipper sock. Personally, I don’t knit or crochet socks for daily wear (inside shoes), it seems like a lot of work for something no one is going to see and will probably not be as comfortable as a simple store bought socks… So, I make slipper socks for hanging around the house instead.
But first, drum roll please:
And the winners are…
Maayanf gets the yarn.
Lilyrose gets the hat.
Sarit gets the scarf.
Last, but not least – Susan gets the socks.
[If you want to see how the winners were chosen, click here. Sarit got two results from the random number generator, so I chose the next result as the 4th winner. The winners will be contacted by email soon to get their mailing address. If for some reason, they do not respond within a week, their prize will go to the next in the sequence.]
Now, back to the sock making business.
- At least 6 balls of rainbow colors worsted weight yarn. I used 8 balls: red, orange, yellow, green, light blue, turquoise, purple and pink. You’ll have plenty left for other projects.
- 5mm crochet hook
- Blunt needle
- ch – chain
- st – stitch
- sc – single crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together: bring up a loop twice, yo, pull through both loops to decrease one stitch.
- This pattern is worked in the round, do not turn or join unless instructed.
- Colors are changed in the bottom/back of the sock, so they are less visible.
- When changing colors – simply crochet over the left over tails of yarn, it will leave almost no need for weaving in loose ends.
- I use a thicker yarn then you would normally use for socks. The rainbow socks are made with worsted weight yarn, and the other socks in this post are made with super bulky and novelty furry yarn. I also make the toe a bit more round than you would for a fitted sock, I think it looks nicer for slippers, and since they aren’t meant to fit inside anything – the little bit of extra ease around the toes is nice.
- The instructions in this post were written and tested on the rainbow slipper socks, woman European size 39-41, us size 9-10, but rule of thumb instructions are given to adjust for other yarn weights, different fits and other sizes.
Shape Toe & Foot
Base chain and round 1: With first color – ch 11. sc in second ch from hook, sc across the base chain (9 sc), turn and sc across the bottom of the base ch. (20 sc at the end of this round)
Place marker in first st to mark the beginning of the round and a different color marker in the 11th st (opposite edge). You will be increasing before and after each marker (4 increases per increase round) to shape the toe. Move the markers up as you go along.
Round 2: [sc (in marked st), 2 sc in next st, sc 7, 2 sc in next st] twice (24)
Round 3: [sc (in marked st), 2 sc in next st, sc 9, 2 sc in next st] twice (28)
Round 4: sc 21, switch color, sc 7 (28)
Round 5: [sc (in marked st), 2 sc in next st, sc 11, 2 sc in next st] twice (32)
Round 6: sc around (32)
Round 7: [sc (in marked st), 2 sc in next st, sc 13, 2 sc in next st] twice (36)
Round 8: sc 27, switch color, sc 9 (36)
Round 9-11: sc around (36)
Round 12: sc 27, switch color, sc 9 (36)
Round 13-32: Repeat rounds 9-12 5 times (36)
Round 33-34: sc around (36)
Round 35: (partial) sc 18
Short Row Heel
Row 1: ch 1, turn, sc 18
Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc 17
Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc 16
Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc 15
Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc 14
Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc 13
Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc 12
Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc 11
Row 9: ch 1, turn, sc 10
You will now have a series of “steps” to shape the heel. Each row, we will “close” those steps to shape the heel. I hope the chart helps clear up what exactly we’re doing here – same colors represent stitches which will be worked together.
Row 10: ch 1, turn, sc 10, sc in the side of the first step, sc in unworked sc, sl st in side of next step, turn (no ch 1).
Row 11: skip sl st, sc 12, sc in the side of the next step, sc in unworked sc, sl st in side of next step, turn (no ch 1 – same as row 11).
Row 12: skip sl st, sc 14, sc2tog on side and unworked sc: bring a loop up through the side of the next step, bring loop up through next unworked sc, yo and pull through both loops. sl st in side of next step, turn.
Row 13: skip sl st, sc 15, sc2tog on side and unworked sc (same as row 12), sl st in side of next step, turn.
Row 14: skip sl st, sc 16, sc2tog on side and unworked sc, sl st in side of next step, turn.
Row 15: skip sl st, sc 17, sc2tog on side and unworked sc, sl st in side of next step, turn.
Row 16: skip sl st, sc 18, sc2tog on side and unworked sc, sl st in side of next step, turn.
Row 17: skip sl st, sc 19, sc2tog on side and unworked sc, sl st in side of next step, turn.
Row 18: skip sl st, sc 20, sc2tog on side and unworked sc, turn.
Round 19: sc around (38)
Round 20: sc2tog, sc 17, sc2tog, sc 8, change color, sc 9 (36)
Round 21: sc around (36)
Round 22: sc 27, switch color, sc 9 (36)
Round 23-33: repeat rows 21-22
Round 34: sc 27, sl st, bind off
Weave in loose ends.
Adjustments for other sizes and fits
To make different sizes:
Start by making a chain from your big toe to your 4th toe. That will be your base chain.
Increase for the first two rounds, then alternate – sc around, increase round until you have covered your toes up to the widest part of your foot.
Continue sc rounds until you reach your heel, then start the short rows. Decrease until you reach the number of stitches in your base chain – then shape the heel.
When you are done shaping the heel, you will be left with more sc then necessary, so you may want to decrease a few.
Continue sc around until you reach the desired height, then bind off and weave in as usual.
- To make a tighter fitting sock (shown above), make your base chain from your big toe to your 3rd toe, and decrease to 2-4 more st than your base chain.
- To make the same size using super bulky yarn (shown below), start with ch 6, and increase to 20 st. Then, to shape the heel – decrease to 6 st again.
[This tutorial is free for commercial use. Please read the Terms & Conditions for further details.]